How to make a screen print

First, you need to decide which surface you want to print your design on, because there's a more or less optimal screen mesh and corresponding screen printing inks for each material. But don't worry, our standard sets include, for example, a screen printing frame with 54T screen mesh. This is an all-rounder mesh that can be used to print on textiles and paper. This makes it very easy for beginners.

Nevertheless, it's good to know: How do you choose the right sieve mesh?
For printing on textiles, a frame with a mesh type of 43T (for black textiles) and 54T is suitable. For fine graphics, even higher mesh sizes (64T, 77T, 80T) are recommended. For paper (depending on absorbency), a frame with 80T and higher is preferable (the higher the number, the finer the mesh structure and the less ink can penetrate the screen mesh). For printing on paper and cardboard, it's better to use a finer mesh, as you need less ink application – unlike on textiles.

However, our practical experience shows that a 54T sieve represents a good middle ground.

How do you choose the right design for screen printing?

It's advisable to start with simple, less detailed, monochrome graphics. This way, you'll learn the process without encountering problems with screen exposure right from the beginning. So, begin with simple motifs in solid colors (like the monsters pictured above). These are graphics that completely lack gradients (e.g., color gradations). They consist only of black areas. These areas can then be very detailed, as this is where screen printing truly shines.

You can, of course, screen print the design in your desired color at the end. The black design is ideal for screen exposure because, in screen printing, we can't directly work with color gradients without creating a halftone screen. Therefore, the stencil only has two states: 1. The screen is solid for ink, or 2. The screen is NOT solid for ink. So, printing color gradations isn't possible initially. However, it is technically possible, but more on that later.

It's important to note that the artwork, which will then be printed onto the screen printing film or transparent film, should be completely black. This can be done in all common graphics programs, from Photoshop to Canva. The optimal RGB value is 0000000. Please avoid printing in CMYK mode, as your black will not print with sufficient opacity on the film.

Slogans and fonts can be created wonderfully easily and exposed for screen printing.

Note: Photos and graphics with color gradients can also be printed. However, the image material must first be halftone screened. We explain this process in our "Guide to Creating Halftone Screens".

Tip: Always ensure that the film with your design is printed in opaque black so that no light can pass through it. If your printer can't print with sufficient opacity, simply print two films, align them precisely during exposure, and then individually tape them to the screen, one after the other, using transparent tape. When you hold the printed film up to the light, you shouldn't be able to see through it (ideally). Only then can you be sure that your design will wash out correctly.

You can also download our demo design templates to get an idea of ​​how to prepare your own designs.

Before the screen can be coated with photo emulsion, a new screen printing frame must be degreased. While our screen printing frames are generally delivered clean, to ensure optimal adhesion of the photo emulsion to the screen mesh, it should be thoroughly washed beforehand with degreaser and water.

After washing, the frame must be thoroughly dried. Simply let it air dry, or use a hairdryer or other heat gun. It can also be placed on a radiator. Make sure the temperature isn't so high that it damages the screen mesh! It's also important not to touch the screen mesh with your fingers. Fingerprints leave greasy residue that prevents the photo emulsion from adhering to those areas.

After drying, the screen printing frame can now be coated with Dipilu photo emulsion . The photo emulsion is used for stencil production. It is applied to both sides of the screen mesh using the coating trough and must then dry. The drying temperature must not exceed 35°C.

Important! Photo emulsion is very light-sensitive. It should therefore only be used under yellow light. Under no circumstances should the can be opened in daylight!

Therefore, our screen printing kits always include a suitably tested yellow light lamp, which prevents the emulsion from hardening prematurely.

Stir the emulsion thoroughly with a wooden or plastic spatula before use. Do not use a metal spatula!

Coat both sides of the screen printing frame with photo emulsion as shown in the video above. First, pour the emulsion into the coating trough and allow any air bubbles to escape.

The emulsion layer now needs to dry. At room temperature (around 25°C), this takes about 3-4 hours. It can also be dried with a hairdryer. However, hold it long enough to prevent the layer from getting too hot. Once dry, the visual change is clearly visible. The previously glassy, ​​moist surface has become matte and dull. The frame is then dry and ready to be exposed to light!

Please also ensure a dust-free environment, as dust particles can accumulate in the emulsion and later lead to so-called "pinholes" during exposure, which then have to be painstakingly retouched afterwards with screen filler.

Once the photo emulsion has dried, you can now expose the frame with your own image. This can be done with daylight, but a photolamp is more reliable and precise.

Keep in mind that we are still working under yellow light to prevent the photoemulsion from being exposed prematurely.

For exposure, place your design, printed on film or foil, in reverse onto the printed side of the coated screen printing frame and secure it at the corners with transparent tape. The printed side is the side that is bonded to the red mesh.

Ideally, you should also use a glass or acrylic glass plate to weigh down the design, as the film can warp during exposure.

It is also advisable to use a suitable insert for the screen printing frame, which protects the squeegee side of the frame from underexposure during exposure.

Next, depending on the chosen method, you expose the screen. The exposure time depends on the photographic emulsion used. With our Dipilu photographic emulsion and the halogen exposure lamp, the exposure time is no longer than 3 minutes and 30 seconds.

In daylight, an exposure of one minute is usually sufficient. However, please note that this method can be unpredictable depending on the lighting conditions, and you must use a template printed in deep black. Also, protect the back of the frame from any incoming light.

After exposure, you won't see any difference at first once you've removed the film from the screen. That's perfectly normal. In the next step, we'll wash the stencil out of the screen.

Please make sure that you work under yellow light until your design is washed out of the screen printing frame.

Now simply wash your exposed image out of the screen completely under running water. First, thoroughly wet both sides of the frame with water and let it soak for about a minute. Then, you can easily wash the image out of the screen using a garden hose or shower head. Often, it's sufficient to simply use an exposure tray into which the frame can be submerged in water. You can then easily wash away any remaining emulsion with a sponge under running water.

The exposed screen printing frame must dry again after washing. This can be done at room temperature.

If the screen fabric and frame are bone dry, you can seal the open edges of the screen with screen tape to prevent ink from seeping through the edges during printing.

Depending on the type of screen printing ink you are working with and whether or not you have a way to dry the prints, different approaches to printing will be required.

Dipilu textile screen printing inks are water-based. If you want to print on textiles and don't have a dryer that can dry the print directly at 150°C, you should use the appropriate cold fixative, which is simply added to the ink at a rate of 5-10% by weight. This ensures good wash resistance of the screen print.

If you print with our screen printing inks for paper, you can simply let them air dry.

Depending on which screen printing kit you have, you can now either clamp the exposed screen frame into the screen clamps or into the holder of your screen printing machine. If you are using the DIY Mini A4 kit, you can simply place the frame on the material to be printed.

Now pour screen printing ink into the screen printing frame and spread it evenly across the entire screen surface using the included squeegee. Maintain an approximate angle of 45°. Pick up the ink from the bottom edge of the screen with the squeegee and place it back in the upper half.

After printing, frames, squeegees, and other tools must be cleaned of ink residue. You can easily return screen printing ink to the ink container using a spatula. The easiest way is to wipe any remaining ink from the screen with a paper towel.

For screen cleaning, apply our Classic Screen Cleaner or Eco Paint Remover to the screen. Rub this solution in thoroughly with a cleaning sponge and then rinse everything out of the screen with plenty of water. After drying, the screen printing frame with your design is ready for the next use.

Coated screen printing frames can be stripped of their coating after use. For this, you use the stripping solution. Simply pour it directly from the bottle onto a sponge that should only be used for stripping.

Now rub the emulsion remover into the stencil and let it soak in. Just make sure the remover doesn't dry out. Then rinse everything out of the sieve with plenty of water.

After removing the coating, the screen printing frame must be degreased again. Use the degreaser to treat the screen on both sides. Then rinse everything thoroughly with plenty of water and let the frame dry.

Now it is ready for a new coating and exposure with a new motif.